Parts
- An ESP32 board. The WLED docs say ESP32 is the better pick for a new project, and that ESP8266 support is coming to an end.
- An addressable LED strip (WS2812B or compatible), which has three connections: power, data and ground.
- A power supply that matches the strip voltage and has enough current. WLED's docs warn that flickering is sometimes caused by low quality supplies with high electrical noise, and say not to trust general reviews alone: look for one proven with addressable strips specifically.
- Wire and fuse sized for the current. Their page links to an LED power, wiring and fuse calculator. Too-thin wire can overheat, so size it properly.
- A level shifter if the data wire from the ESP32 to the strip cannot be kept short.
- Data: on ESP32 the Quick Start uses GPIO16 as the default LED data pin (other usable pins are listed there). Check your board's pin labels, since silkscreen labels are not always the GPIO numbers.
- Connect the ESP's ground and the strip's ground together (the docs warn about this specifically).
- Addressable strips have a direction: connect the data wire at the end where the arrows start. Connecting at the wrong end is mistake number one in the docs' list.
- Do not power a long strip from the ESP's USB port. Power the strip from the supply, and follow the wiring guide for how to feed the ESP.
- Mains work (the supply's input side) is for a licensed electrician in Australia. Use a pre-made, approved power supply with a proper enclosure and plug, not a bare module on a bench.
- Flash WLED with the web installer linked from the Quick Start page (USB cable to the ESP32).
- On first boot, 30 LEDs should light orange. Connect your phone or computer to the Wi-Fi network WLED-AP. The default password is wled1234 and is the same on every device, so change it.
- Open wled.me (or 4.3.2.1) and go to Config > WiFi Setup. Enter your Wi-Fi details, set an mDNS name such as wled-lounge, and change the AP password. Save and connect. After the device joins your network, 4.3.2.1 stops working. Use the mDNS name or the IP.
- Under LED Preferences, set the correct LED type, colour order and number of LEDs, and set the maximum current for your supply. The docs say the default limiter of 850 mA often makes long strips stay dark or flash then go out. Set it to what your supply and wiring can safely deliver, not just a bigger number.
- Reserve the device's IP in your router.
WLED has built-in OTA updates. The docs mention an OTA passphrase (default "wledota") and an "OTA locked" checkbox in settings. Change the default passphrase, and keep OTA locked unless you are updating. Check the WLED docs for the latest security options on your version.
Home Assistant
The HA WLED integration is auto-discovered. If not, use Settings > Devices & services > Add Integration > WLED and enter the hostname or IP. You get a light entity (with effects and palettes) and entities for presets, segments and some device settings. The docs also describe automations that set a palette or run a preset, plus options such as "Keep Master Light" if you add and remove segments dynamically.
Ideas: doorbell flash, dishwasher finished glow, "bins out" reminder on a strip by the door, status of the alarm.
Sync and network tips
- WLED has a built-in UDP notifier (enabled by default) to sync several lights to the same colour or effect. If you do not want that, check the Sync settings.
- Do not expose WLED to the internet. Put it on your IoT network and allow the Home Assistant host through.
- If the strip misbehaves, work through the "Top 5 mistakes" page before asking for help: wrong direction, wrong GPIO, current limiter, wrong LED type, bad wiring.
Question for the group: what are you driving with WLED (TV backlight, cabinet lighting, Christmas displays?), what power supply and wiring have you settled on, and what automations triggered from Home Assistant do you actually use?